Ford Escape; Model Year Engine Belt / Chain; 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 (first generation) 2.0 L Zetec I4: timing belt: 2.3 L Duratec 23 I4.
A few common problems were associated with the 3.0L Ford V6. In its early years the engine was known to have leaking head gaskets. The normal heating and cooling of the engine block would cause the gaskets to fail, which would in turn cause coolant to be sucked into the combustion chambers. This condition would cause severe engine failure if it was not caught immediately.
The problem was addressed and corrected by the time the 1989 models were hitting the showroom floors, and it did not return. Also known to be common with the 3.0L, was a failure of the cooling fan switch. The radiator cooling fan was fitted with an electronic switch that turned it on when it was needed. But that switch would fail and cause the engine to overheat. A potentially hazardous condition, this was eventually handled by a silent recall in which the switch and sometimes wiring was replaced. Perhaps the most dangerous problem related to the Ford 3.0L V6, was failure of the water pump. The problem was known as a silent killer because there were few outward signs that any problem was lurking. Csi wealth management essentials pdf merge.
The issue revolved around the impellers on the water pump, and their eventual failure. The impellers would become rusted, corroded and would eventually deteriorate to the point that they could no longer circulate the coolant correctly.
The coolant would become heavy with metal, stagnate and eventually boil over when the engine got hot. Often times the temperature gauge would not respond because the coolant would boil out the system too quickly for the temperature sensor to read. Catastrophic engine failure was the eventual result of this condition. The only outward sign that something might be wrong with the water pump is rust colored coolant. The normally green liquid would become brown. This is an indication that the water pump impellers are breaking down. Those metal pieces will also eventually clog the heater core, causing a lack of heat in the cabin, and a potentially costly heater core replacement.
Some of the classic cars had included in their code, a section for price class. Some others did not. For example, Chrysler had included a 13-digit VIN number from 1966-1974, of which one number represented the code for price class (2nd digit). The last 8-13 digits of the code represented the sequential production number. Locating an old car or truck you used to own can be a challenge with or without an accurate VIN. If you have a VIN or serial number, start your search by: Using a VIN check site that specializes in older vehicle databases. Typing your VIN into a search engine such as Google, Yahoo, or Bing. For vehicles manufactured before 1981, the unique Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) code given to each vehicle is created from using a 13-digit sequence of letters and numbers. Each character in the sequence provides certain information about the vehicle, such as manufacturer, place of origin, place of assembly, model year, and vehicle type. Classic car vin check 13 characters. Car would not have had a title since it is a 79 but I can't do anything without the name of the owner. IL requires a bill of sale stating the car was sold without a title since it was from Georgia. BUT, I have to have his name, if IL does a check on the car and finds the BOS does not match the last registered owner they will not issue a title. Your vin number can be decoded on certain sites but the history of the car can usually only go back to about 10 to 15 years unless you are fortunate enough to have a one owner car with maintenance records. It is very rare. Prior to 1980 the vin was 13 numbers and letters.
It is recommended that if the coolant is brown in color that it be changed promptly. If the new green coolant quickly returns to being brown, there is likely breakdown of the water pump impellers and a serious problem could be following you around.
A few common problems were associated with the 3.0L Ford V6. In its early years the engine was known to have leaking head gaskets. The normal heating and cooling of the engine block would cause the gaskets to fail, which would in turn cause coolant to be sucked into the combustion chambers. This condition would cause severe engine failure if it was not caught immediately. The problem was addressed and corrected by the time the 1989 models were hitting the showroom floors, and it did not return. Also known to be common with the 3.0L, was a failure of the cooling fan switch. The radiator cooling fan was fitted with an electronic switch that turned it on when it was needed.
But that switch would fail and cause the engine to overheat. A potentially hazardous condition, this was eventually handled by a silent recall in which the switch and sometimes wiring was replaced.
Perhaps the most dangerous problem related to the Ford 3.0L V6, was failure of the water pump. The problem was known as a silent killer because there were few outward signs that any problem was lurking. The issue revolved around the impellers on the water pump, and their eventual failure. The impellers would become rusted, corroded and would eventually deteriorate to the point that they could no longer circulate the coolant correctly.
The coolant would become heavy with metal, stagnate and eventually boil over when the engine got hot. Often times the temperature gauge would not respond because the coolant would boil out the system too quickly for the temperature sensor to read. Catastrophic engine failure was the eventual result of this condition. The only outward sign that something might be wrong with the water pump is rust colored coolant. The normally green liquid would become brown. This is an indication that the water pump impellers are breaking down. Those metal pieces will also eventually clog the heater core, causing a lack of heat in the cabin, and a potentially costly heater core replacement.
It is recommended that if the coolant is brown in color that it be changed promptly. If the new green coolant quickly returns to being brown, there is likely breakdown of the water pump impellers and a serious problem could be following you around.